Carlson Laser Aesthetics

It's always easy to talk to clients about the extrinsic, premature signs that appear due to sun exposure or poor diet because they continually hear the statistics about UV damage rays and skin damage, as well as the connection between a healthy diet and healthy skin.

Messages such as these have been a part of the mainstream media - in consumer women's magazines and on television - for decades, and for good reason. But the topic of smoking and the skin has never been widely discussed. Of coarse, it is commonly known that smoking is bad for your health, but it's specific effects on the skin are rarely discussed in detail.

In research released by the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services in 2010, 21% of adults 18 and older smoke cigarettes. A person may be a 20-something social smoker who has only a few cigarettes on the weekends when he/she is out with friends and doesnt feel the need to quit because she sees no signs of aging. Or, she may be a pack-a-day smoker who's coming to you because she sees the deep lines, rough texture and skin discoloration. Either way, it's time to begin treatments of smoker's for smoker's skin with ingredients that will imoprove skin function and appearance.

How to talk about smoking

How do you begin to talk to clients about their smoking habits? It starts with the facts. During your initial skin assessment, as you discuss your client's history, concerns and goals, take the opportunity to talk about smoking's long-term effects. Here, broken out into talking points youcan use, is what inhaling 4,000 chemicals in a cigarette does to the skin.

Smoking chokes skin. The fountain of youth is in the bloodstream, but smoking cigarettes causes a restriction of the blood vessels, “choking” them, which then reduces blood supply to the skin. This results in a reduction in oxygen, which is necessary for cell regeneration and the ability to carry away damaging free radicals, so toxins build up and accelerate aging.

Even smoking a single cigarette can result in vasoconstriction for up to 90 minutes. Smoking for 10 minutes decreases tissue oxygen for almost an hour.¹ That means a pack-a-day smoker will have skin with a reduced oxygen supply for most of the day.

Smoking thins skin. A recent British study focused on 25 pairs of identical twins, one a lifetime smoker and one who never smoked. Using an ultrasound to gauge skin thickness, the smokers’ skin was 25% thinner than the nonsmokers’, and was as much as 40% thinner in a few of the cases.²

Smoking destroys skin’s collagen and elastin. The appearance of wrinkles and loose or sagging skin is caused by the destruction of collagen and elastin—complex structural proteins that are necessary to keep skin firm, elastic and strong. Smoking robs skin of vitamin C, which is necessary for collagen production, and keeps skin soft and revitalized. It also interrupts the production of the matrix metalloproteinase enzyme, which regulates collagen production.

Smoking causes vertical lines around the mouth. When smokers take a puff from a cigarette, it forces the lips to pucker and form the same lines around the mouth over and over again. Throughout time, these contractions become permanent wrinkles. Pucker lines are a dead giveaway that someone is a smoker.

Smoking slows skin healing. Smoking delays the skin’s ability to regenerate. Wounds take longer to heal, and scars are more likely to form. Many good cosmetic surgeons won’t even operate on a smoker.

Even if you don’t see age signs yet, they can take up to 10 years to appear. This is a great fact for young clients who feel if they don’t see the damage yet, they don’t have to worry.

How to treat the smoking client

So how do you treat smoker’s skin—the dryness, lines and wrinkles on the cheeks, loss of firmness, lip lines and thin skin?

First, be frank with your clients. If they continue to smoke, their skin will continue to age prematurely. There is no miracle treatment or ingredient that will completely reverse the damage caused by years of smoking. However, for clients who are making the choice to save their skin, you can help with treatments that will rehydrate the skin, revitalize the complexion and deliver the needed oxygen that’s been robbed by cigarettes.

Oxygenate. Apply a targeted oxygenating treatment that’s formulated with stabilized hydrogen peroxide and essential oxygen that will infuse skin, and revitalize dullness and sluggishness. This will refresh smoker’s skin, and leave it smooth and hydrated.

Making the recommendation

Above all, recommend that your client quits smoking. Even one recommendation can make the difference. There is plenty of smoking cessation help online, includingwww.smokefree.gov and women.smokefree.gov, so providing these types of resources may be all the client needs to get started on the road to a smoke-free life.

Article Written By: Barbara Salomone, SkinInc. Magazine

What to do when it's more than dry skin...

You expect to work a little harder to stay soft and smooth in winter, but what if your usual strategies aren't cutting it? Here's the 411 on five common conditions, plus soothing solutions.

Although some expectant mothers are fortunate to have radient, problem-free skin for the duration of their pregnancy, others may experience a number of dermatological challanges that go well beyond the flushed sheen of the "pregnancy glow".

From severe acne and the "mask of pregnancy" to stretch marks and spider veins, pregnancy can bring about a variety of skin issues that can be unsightly or downright problematic. Some skin conditions, such as linea nigra, may slowly disappear following childbirth, but other issues, such as stretch marks or spider veins, may require cosmetic treatment in order to restore beautiful, clear skin.

Dark patches and lines

Melasma, dark brown spots or grat patches that appear in the cheeks, forehead, chin and above the lip, is very commin during pregnancy. It is often referred to as that mask of pregnancy and is usually triggered by hormones. Sun Protection is the most common treatment for dark vertical line running from the client's navel to the pubic bone, is also triggered by hormones. Sun protection is the most common treatment for melasma, and dermatologists recommend pregnant clients wear sunscreen every day along with a wide-brimmed hat. Linea nigra, a dark vertical line running from the client's navel to the pubic bone, is also triggered by hormones during pregnancy and usually appears gradually after the fourth month. In many cases, the mask of pregnancy and linea nigra slowly disappear after the baby is born, but some mothers may exhibit these conditions for years. It can be safely treated after pregnancy with Fraxel re:store and re:pair laser treatments or with the topical medication. It is important to work with a dermatologist to help determine the right approach for your client, which may require maintenance therapy to help keep melasma from returning.

Saad suggests that for skin care clients who have melasma, it is very important to recommend that they wear sunscreen because the sun makes the condition worse and darker. He also says that, in order to fade melasma, tretinoin or hydroquinone may be used.

Stretch marks and PUPPP

Stretch marks may appear on the hips, stomach, upper thighs or breasts during pregnancy. They develop deep within the dermal layers and may begin as red lines during pregnancy and change to shiny, white lines post-pregnancy. Some clients may also develop an itchy rash known as PUPPP (pruritic uticarial papules and placques of pregnancy) during the last part of their pregnancy. PUPPP usually resolves after the pregnancy. Lasers can reduce the redness in stretch marks.

According to Saad, the appearance of stretch marks can be managed if they have a lot of blood vessels (and are more noticeable) by being treated with a V beam or pulsed-dye laser.

Saad also says that PUPPP is an itchy rash that can appear at the end of the third trimester and after delivery. It’s harmless and can be treated with topical steroids.

Acne and scarring

Acne isn't just for teens. Expectant mothers may experience acne brought on by changes in hormones and/or elevated levels of cortisone in the body (due to stress) for the first time during their pregnancy. Although most acne outbreaks are not severe in some cases, acne can result in scarring. About 40% of individals with acne in general benefit from treatment by a physician. There are several topical acne medications that may be safely used during pregnancy and will not harm the fetus. Consider referring your client to a dermatologist that prescribe a topical acne medication that is right for you.

Severe acne during pregnancy can result in acne-scarring. It does no good to try to reduce your acne by picking and scratching at it. The picking and scratching of acne (a condition known as acne excoriée) can lead to infection and scarring. If you suspect that your client has acne excoriée, consider referring them to a dermatologist for treatment.

According to Saad, the standard treatment for acne is benzoyl peroxide and oral antibiotics. For acne scarring, treatment with a resurfacing laser such as the Fraxel laser is ideal.

Abdominal sagging

Thermage treatments can help firm and tighten the loose abdomen after childbirth. Thermage treatments utilize radio- frequency technology to tighten and contour the skin. It is a noninvasive procedure that works to smooth wrinkled, sagging skin on the abdomen, and may also be used on the upper arms and thighs. Results may be seen after one treatment and there is no recovery time. One treatment takes approximately 90 minutes.

Spider veins

Facial spider veins (also referred to as visible blood vessels or telangiectases) may appear during pregnancy on the nose, cheeks, or chin. Although these visible blood vessels are usually not a serious problem, they can be unsightly. Lasers and photorejuvenation therapy can reduce the appearance of telangiectases. Intense pulsed light (IPL) is a photorejuvenation treatment that can minimize the appearance of broken/visible blood vessels. IPL delivers light energy to the skin surface in precise pulses to rejuvenate the skin. IPL is effective for all skin types and can provide immediate, long-lasting results.

Leg spider veins may develop due to the pressure of the baby on the abdomen. Although spider veins are not generally painful, they can be unsightly and bothersome to many people. Spider veins on the legs may be treated with a gentle YAG laser in one-to-three sessions. Healing times are quicker, there is little discoloration at the treatment site and fewer treatments are needed than with traditional laser therapy.

Sclerotherapy is another effective treatment for leg spider veins. During the treatment, a concentrated salt solution is injected into the spider veins, resulting in damage to the inside wall of the vein and reduction of the appearance of the veins. Several treatments are necessary to achieve the desired cosmetic result. Compression stockings must be worn for two weeks after the procedure to achieve optimal results. Sclerotherapy treatments may be performed as often as once a month.

Article Written By: Richard F. Eisen, MD and Ramzi W. Saad, MD

Today, who doesn't have a lot of stress in their life? Too much stress can raise blood pressure, cause stomach problems, disrupt sleep patterns and more. As if that's not bad enough, stress can induce weight gain. There are a couple reasons behind this phenomenon.

First, when you're frazzled, it's easy to turn to food as a source of comfort and make poor eating choices. Second, stress stimulates the release of the flight-or-fight hormone, cortisol, which can make your waistline expand.

To help avoid packing on the pounds when you're stressed out, author and gynecologist Dr. Jen Ashton shares her foolproof secret weapons to help you cut out poor eating habits, fight stress, and lose weight. The plan requires you to be somewhat strict Monday through Friday, but the weekends offer a little wiggle room from the dietary restrictions.

Foods that fight stress

1. Eliminate Bad Carbs

Start by eliminating all bad carbs from your diet. That includes anything that contains simple sugars such as foods made with flour, processed snacks, white potatoes, etc. Monday through Friday try to eliminate anything in grain form, even the good whole-grain carbs, and stick to lean proteins, fruits and vegetables.

Dr. Ashton's Secret Weapon: Wheat Berries

On the weekends, make eating foods with wheat in them a habit. Try Wheat Berries! Healthy whole grains are versatile, high in protein, complex carbohydrates that will keep you full and help you maintain a high energy level throughout the day. Add the to salads, cereal or mix with dry fruit or a healthy snack.

2. Add 2 Protein-rich Snacks Per Day

When you're hit with mid-morning or mid-afternoon cravings, you need to fill your tank with good fuel to zap energy lulls. Many people reach for chips or other empty carbs at snack time, but these foods cause energy spikes that result in crashes and fatigue. The key to staying full and regulating your energy level is to make protein part of both your meals and snacks.

Dr. Ashton's Secret Weapon: Plant-based Protein Powder

Add plant-based protein powders such as those made from hemp or flaxseed to shakes and enjoy during mid-morning or mid-afternoon snack time. Create a veggie-based shake with frozen spinach or go sweeter by adding frozen strawberries.

3. The Power of Purple Foods

At every meal, add some purple foods such as plums, eggplants or purple cabbage-all of which are packaged with powerful antioxidants that improve your overall health.

Dr. Ashton's Secret Weapon: Purple Potatoes

Purple potatoes, now more readily available in grocery stores, have been shown to help lower blood preasure and reduce stress.

4. Avoid Packaged Foods

So many of us reach for packaged snack foods when you're busy or stressed out even though we know they're not healthy choices. Follow this rule of thumb: If it contains ingredients that you can't pronounce, don't eat it.

D. Ashton's Secret Weapon: "To-go" Containers

To avoid munching on something that comes out of a snack bag, buy portable containers with a couple different compartments. At breakfast time, pack your protein-rich snacks, some purple foods, etc. You'll avoid purchasing convenience foods at work, save time, and also lose weight.

In sum, remember to stick to the plan Monday through Friday. In addition to enjoying your wheat Berries on the weekends, reward yourself in other ways such as indulging your sweet tooth with a piece of dark chocolate. The reason this plan works is that it's sustainable and allows you to have some flexibility.

Article Written By: Dr. Jen Ashton, The Dr. Oz Show

Many women find themselves having problems with their skin in the winter. While in other seasons skin care products work very well, in winter you might encounter difficulties in finding suitable products that will have the desired results so you won't end up having eczema or irritations.

Some reasons for your skin to become irritated in winter are: the dry air in your home due to the heating system, the low temperatures outside, the sun that reflects in the snow and the use of improper skin care products. You should have an air humidifier in your home to prevent itchiness of your skin. Change your cosmetic products, choose an oil based moisturizer and use it frequent. This type of ointment helps your skin by creating a protective layer on it and works better than skin care products like creams and lotions.

Another important part of the tegument process in winter is sunscreen. You need it as much in winter as much as summer. You'll need a sunscren with high protection factor, like 30, and use it on every part of your body that's exposed when going outside on sunny days. The sun is very powerful in winter especially because it reflects on the snow. So use the proper skin care line. If you dont know what products from the variety available on the market, you could ask a specialist in the skin care profession. A skin care professional will help you and advise you to choose the best skin care lotions for your type of skin.

Also in winter it's important what clothes you wear and how you wear them in order to protect your skin. Another vital "product" is... WATER. Yes, water helps your skin remian healthy during winter. You should drink a lot of water during the day in order to stay moist and prevent your skin to dry.

The proper lip balm with be your best friend in terms of skin care products during winter. You all have the tendency to lick your lips, because they get dry due to the low temperatures and wind. Stop doing that and choose the best lip balm.

Advice you will probably find a bit odd is that you should take a hot shower before going out, but before finishing the shower switch it to cold water for about half a minute and repeat the process two or three times. Why?This way your skin will be revitilized and ready for the harsh conditions outside. It works better than any other lotion.

Everybody catches colds in winter and you find it absolutely embarrassing to go out having an exfoliated red nose because of all the tissues you've used to blow it? No worries, at night use some damaged skin care creams you can find in drugstores and by day use faithfully the concealer combined with a little bit of power.

Dress well, use gloves, the hands are usually in bad shape in winter so with the help of skin care hand lotions and warm gloves you'll help protect them from becoming razorblades.

And of course the best and already known advice in terms of skin care is to sleep. Sleep full nights. Your tegument will be in good shape in the morning and with the help of some creams you'll feel as good as new.

Article Written By: Mario Feneru, Ezine Articles

Now that winter has settled in, waiting for beautiful spring weather can seem like a lifetime away. There are lots of ways to keep your spirits up even when the thermometer keeps dropping down...

1. Buy yourself some fresh flowers and keep potted plants around your home. That dose of fresh fragrance and beauty reminds you that spring is right around the corner.
2. Fill your home, car, and office with lively music when you feel down. One great song can lift your mood in minutes!
3. Take a short, daily walk or hit the gym to boost dopamine, norepinephrine, and serotonin. These hormones keep you feeling happy and more content.
4. Treat yourself to a facial! A little pampering goes a long way and during the winter, our skin takes a lot of abuse.
5. When you need a boost, drink white or green tea. These delicious drinks provide the highest level of L-theanine - a perfect mood enhancer and anxiety reducer!
6. Check with your pharmacist or physician - you may want to add a Vitamin D supplement to your diet due to the lack of sunlight.
7. Make more effort to socialize with your family and friends - it can be tempting to curl up on the couch with the remote but you always feel better when you spend quality time with your favorite people.
8. When you wake up groggy, pull up all the shades and get as much sunlight in your home or office. There are photosensitive receptor cells that are especially responsive to the sunlight and they tell your brain to wake up and become alert.
9. Avoid sugar crashes - eat a protein rich breakfast each morning and dont rely on sugar loaded snacks to give you enough energy to make it through the day.
10. Take advantage of winter sports like skiing or sledding - make the most of the cold weather!

Article Written by: skincare.com

It's not a myth-people are definately comprised of the elements that they eat, which are absorbs into te bloodstream and feed every cell. Each month, people renew their skin, every six weeks they have a new liver, and every three months they have new bones. In order to renew and rebuild these organs and tissues, it is important to supply the body with the materials that have been lost as a result of constant use, degeneration and aging.

The problem is that human bodies are not getting enough nutrients to keep cells fed. The Standard American Diet (SAD)-an acronym that is most appropriate-is grossly inadequate and almost devoid of many nutrients. Americans are overfed and undernourished. Adding to the problem, many drugs interfere with the absorption of key nutrients. For example, tetracycline interferes with calcium, magnesium and iron absorption, and many antibiotics interfere with the absorption of vitamin B, while oral contraceptives and hormones reduce levels of water-soluble vitamins.

It has been well documented in scientific literature that nutrition can play a key role in skin health. In relation to skin disease and aging, the bad news is that poor nutrition can accelerate skin degeneration. The good news is, however, is that a healthful diet that is complete with optimal nutrition can help forestall, prevent and even reverse skin conditions. Knowing this, it becomes clear that if you add an optimal nutrition plan to every skin care regimen, you will literally eat your way to healthier skin while promoting your total well-being.

What to eat

Nutritionists commonly advise people to eat a rainbow of fruits and vegetables every day. Whenever possible, they should be eaten raw. If they are cooked, they should be steamed to retain nutrients, or else lightly boiled. Even better, waterless cooking in the microwave preserves the most nutrients. Although many believe that organic foods are best, they may not always be available or cost effective. In any case, there are 12 foods that should always be purchased as organic and 12 others that dont have to be, says The Environmental Working Group (EWG).

The following foods should be purchased as organic because they commonly are very contaminated with pesticides: peaches, apples, sweet bell peppers, celery, nectarines, strawberries, cherries, pears, imported grapes, spinach, lettuce and potatoes.

Onions, avacados, sweet corn, pineapples, mangos, asparagus, sweet peas, kiwi, bananas, cabbage, broccoli, and papaya are consistantly clean, according to the EWG, and regularly dont have any detectable pesticide residues.

In addition to fruits and vegetables, whole grains, lean proteins and healthy fats provide the nutrients the body needs for optimal nutrition. Moreover, consuming scientifically formulated dietary supplements can also be helpful because they offer the nutritional insurance needed to further optimize an individual's personal nutrition profile. Supplements cannot replace foods, however, especially because good sources of fiber, such as fruits and vegetables, are sorely needed. Supplements should only be used to augment the diet.

Inflammation and cell water loss

Wheather eaten in food form or taken as a supplement, an internal skin care program should incorporate plenty of anti-inflammatory foods and dietary nutrients. As a person ages, the body develops an ability to react disproportionately-either too much or too little-to what it perseives as an injury or invasion. Inflammation is really a sign that the body is attempting to protect itself. It is also a sign of cellular water loss. Inflammation causes cell damage and has been linked to sountless conditions from Alzheimer's disease to diabetes to heart disease, and even to wrinkles. When cells are not fully hydrated, they cannot function at optimal levels, and this leads to cell damage and aging. Aditionally, when cells deteriorate, the immune response does not function well. So, based on theis water principal,  the collective idea is to reinforce cellular membranes, prevent cell water loss and encourage the accululation of intracellular water to ensure that cells and connective tissues function at their optimum levels. But drinking water isnt the answer-the cells have to be fed. An anti-inflammatory diet will fortify connective tissues, cells and their membranes with the antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and lipids they need for quick healing, resiliency and supple, youthful skin.

Anti-inflammatory foods

Anti-inflammatory foods include those stocked with antioxidants, or brightly colored fruits and vegetables,a and healthful, essential fatty acid (EFA)-rich protein. In skin cells, such as those found in the stratum corneum, EFAs in cell membranes actually enhance the immune system as they strengthen the skin's barrier function. In other words, EFAs play a part in cutaneous immunity. Obtaining a large amount of EFAs through outside sources is essential to total health. In addition, alpha-linolic (ALA) gamma-linolenic acids are ceaseless inflammation- stoppers, as in durain extract and even sulfur.

Gamma linolenic acid (GLA) is an EFA in the omgea-6 family that is found primarily on plant-based oils. It is less common than ALA, but can be found in seed oils, such as borage, evening primrose, black currant and hemp.

Durain is another anti-inflammatory food that isnt seen much in the United States. Its a native plant to Asia that offers a one-two punch to inflammation. Together, the omega-3 EFAs and antioxidants in durain act synergistically as they moderate the induction of inflammatory and detoxifying benefits. Sulfur is found in every living cell in the body, and it plays a key role in collagen synthesis.

Special concerns

Although inflammation-abating foods are good for cell health in general, there are some nutrients that are better that others for specific skin concerns.

acne. Vitamin A helps normalize the production of excess skin cells that clog the pore within the follicle. Vitamins B-1, B-2, B-3 and B-6 assist with tissue growth and repair, and zinc helps reduce the inflammation of acne. Antioxidants sucha s grape seen extract also reduce inflammation from acne and free radicals.

Menopausal skin. Melatonin, in addition to regulating sleep, is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect nuclear and mitochondrial DNA. Glucosamine is the building block of the ingredients needed to heal or repair the dermis, as well as all of the rest of the connective tissue throughout the body. And gamma-aminobutyric acid, which is responsible for the regulation of muscle tone, is also a key nutrient.

Stressed skin. B vitamins and glucosamine are essential for tissue repair and healing, as is vitamin C, coenzyme Q-10 and pomegranate, which boosts skins natural SPF. In addition, orgeano, an anti-inflammatory herb and curcumin, which comes from tumeric (found in curries), offer cell-protective and anti-cancer benefits. Zinc also relieves inflammation and EFAs strengthen skin cell membranes. Lechithin, which is mainly comprised of phosphatidylcholine, is also excellent for overprocessed skin because it is a mojor component of cellular membranes. Lechithin makes cell membranes strong, so intracellular water doesnt leak.

The "pitcher" of health

Stepping away from the traditional idea of a food pyramid, consider the sybolism of a pitcher-a vessel that holds water. The food groups within the pitcher encourage intracellular water  as they give the body the nutrients it needs to feel cells for overall health and youthful skin.

Fruits and vegetables. Fruits and vegetables from the base of the pitcher. More of these foods should be eaten than any other group-three or more servings a day of fruits, and five or more servings of vegetables. For example, a small or medium sized fruit, such as an apple, is one serving, and 1/2 cup of chopped vegetables is one serving. Fruits and vegetables are rich in phytochemicals, such as polyphenols, and are the healing antioxidants the body needs.

Whole grains. Whole grains (four to eight servings daily) should be the next level up in the pitcher. A serving would be one slice of whole grain bread or 1/3 cooked brown rice. Avoid refined grains and carbohydrates. Whole grains are a source of magnesium and selenium is a mineral used in building bones and releasing ebergy from muscles. Selenium protects cells from oxidation, and it is also important for a healthy immune system.

Proteins. Proteins (four to six servings daily) should be the third level up inside the pitcher, and this includes fish rich in omega-3 fatty amino acids. Avoid high saturated-fat meat products and whole-fat dairy foods. A serving would be on medium egg or three ounces of fish. Amino acids give the body all the raw materials it needs to build collagen and elastin, the two substances necessary for keeping the dermis and blood vessels firm, strong and smooth.

Healthy fats. Healthy fats should be limited to just three to four servings a day and are next up within the pitcher. One serving would be teaspoon of olive oil or alternatively six almonds. Healthy fats are unsaturated, such as omega-3,-6 and -9 fatty acids, which are found in flaxseed oil, extra virgin olive oil, canola oil, natural-style nut bars, cold-water fish and nuts.

Supplements and water. Near the top of the pitcher is space for supplements and water to address any dietary deficiencies.

Bridging the nutritional gap

Most people do not even realixe that the skin symptoms they see in the mirrow and the fatiuge they feel  are the result of nutrient deficiencies. The precise amounts of nutrients that each persons body needs to close the gap between whats consumed and whats missed cant be known, bt it is known that certain dietary nutrients can counteract inflammation, stress and neutralize free radicals. Its importan to remember that before there was medicine, there was food.

Although it is not an exhaustive list, the aforementioned nutrients offer an internal route to skin health. The best that can be done is eat well and take supplemental nutrients in amounts that sre greater that can easily be consumed through foods, but not so much that imbalances are created or toxic levels reached. These changes can be part of a long-term, inclusive solution, augmentation current topical skin care regimens to improve the look of skin, while at the same tme, increasing longevity and health down to the cellular level.

Article Written by: Howard Murad, MD (SkinInc. Magazine)

New research shows that tea can be beneficial in supporting the body's elasticity and collagen, as well as be helpful for other parts of the body.

Next time you're making a cup of tea, new research shows it might be wise to opt for a white tea if you want to reduce your risk of cancer, rheumatiod arthritis or even just age-associated wrinkles.

Reserchers tested the health properties of 21 plant and herb extracts. They discovered all of the parts tested had some potential benefits, but were intrigued to find white tea considerably outperformed all of them. White tea has anti-aging potential and high levels of antioxidants that could prevent cancer and heart disease. Plant extracts protect structural proteins of the skin, specifically elastin and collagen. Elastin supports the body's natural elasticity, which helps lungs, arteries, ligaments and skin to function. It also helps body tissie and is important for skin, strength and elasticity. Results showed white tea prevented the activities of the emzymes that break down elastin and collagen, which can lead to wrinkles that accompany aging. These enzymes, along with oxidants, are associated with inflammatory diseases such as rheumatoid arthritis. These enzymes and oxidants are key components of normal body processes, In inflammatory conditions, supressing the activities of these excess components has been the subject of decades of research.

The researchers were blown away by exactly how well the white tea had performed. White tea can reduce the risk of inflammation, which is characteristic of rheumatiod arthritis and some cancers, as well as wrinkles.

Eight of the other plants and herbs analyzed also helped protect against the breakdown of both elastin and collagen. After white tea, bladderwrack performed well, following extracts of cleavers, rose, green tea, angelica, anise and pomegranate.

Article written by: SkinInc. Magazine

To avoid even more stress as you enter the season to be jolly, holiday stress relief expert Lauren E. Miller, provides real tips on how to have more joy and less stress in the midst of the holiday craze.

"Stress is simply a signal within your body giving you an amazing opportunity to identify and adjust your perception of a situation, along with your behavior. We forget that whatever we focus on grows bigger quickly--positive or negative," says Miller.

Miller suggests three quick tips to help you and your clients stay sane in the midst of the insanity:

• Know what you value most in life. When your priorities are clear, decisions are easy. Stress creeps in when you forget what you value most in life. When you spend most of your energy on the nonessentials in life, you begin to feel depleted very quickly and the stress hormones begin to double. Create moments every day that nurture what you value most in this life and notice how quickly clarity of thinking and inner peace return within your being.
• Let go of this belief: "In order to be loved and accepted, I need to be perfect, have the perfect house, tree, job, car, person, family, job, credentials." What is your inner list of requirements in order to feel loved and accepted in life? Let go of your need for certain outcomes around the holidays in order for you to feel good about yourself. Happiness returns when you release the attachments you have in life in order to feel good about you. "Remember, joy flows from the inside out, not the outside in. Start loving yourself completely just as you are, right where you are at," she says. "If you lack it borrow it from God's heart where the supply is limitless."
• Breathe, breathe, breathe and be present to the "Silent, Holy, Night" that dwells within every moment of life. Give yourself the gap of empowerment that comes when you become the observer of your life verses the reactor. Be a curious and fascinated human being who looks at everything before them as an opportunity for learning and growth. When one door closes, don't waste one moment looking at that closed door, start seeking the open window. "Don't miss life, when you worry, doubt and fear; you miss the life standing right in front of your face. When you are present you will laugh more in life which has profound physiological benefits, another wonderful gift to give yourself and those around you this season," she says.

Article written by: SkinInc. Magazine

Here are a few ways to prevent facial wrinkles:

Wash and Exfoliate: True or false: Dry skin causes wrinkles? Surprisingly, the answer is false. The same environment assaults that cause wrinkles also cause dry skin; dry skin is a by-products of these assaults, rather than the cause of the wrinkles themselves. Even though dry skin doesn't cause wrinkling, it does make existing wrinkles more noticeable. Proper washing and exfoliating will help reduce the appearance of the lines and wrinkles.

The outer layer of skin (epidermis) contains a protective acid barrier that prevents bacterial and fungal growth. Ordinary soaps have an alkaline pH which removes this barrier. Consider applying a topical antioxidant, such as the L-ascorbic acid version of vitamin C, niacinamide or pantothenic acid. Antioxidants reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

You should exfoliate regularly with a physical exfoliant, such as finely ground apricot seeds, or a chemical exfoliant, such as alpha-hydroxy acid (fruit-based acids) or glycolic acid ( derived from sugar cane).

Read the Label: Moisturizer and Wrinkle Creams: Since adding good sources a vitamins A, C and E to your diet is so great for your skin. It makes sense to check the labels on your moisturizers and wrinkle creams for these wrinkle-busting ingredients.

• Vitamin A (a retinol) appears on cosmetic labels as Retin-A (retinoic acid), retinol and retinyl. When applied as a topical cream, these ingredients increase collagen and elsatin (proteins in the dermis). Retinoids also work to repair sun damage and lessen the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• The L-ascorbic version of vitamin C penetrates the outer layer of skin abd increases vitamin C levels by 40 percent. Vitamin C protects against sunburn and can decrease the appearance of rosacea.
• DL-alpha-tocopherol is the most effective topical form of vitamin E. It enhances the effects of sunscreen and slows the formation of wrinkles. Because UV rays degrade or inactivate vitamins C and E, use products containing these ingredients at night or underneath sunblock.

Eat Vitamin-Rich Foods: While we're talking moderation, it makes sense to point out that a balanced diet improves skin health as much as it improves overall health. Certain foods are especially beneficial for the skin. Vitamins A, C and E, as well as carotenoids (found in salmon), and lycopene (found in tomatoes), are great for your skin.

It doesn't hurt to eat these foods, which are rich in vitamins A, C and E:

Vitamin A-spinach, sweet potatoes, papayas, eggs, mangos and cantaloupe

Vitamin C-red bell peppers, broccoli, peaches, papayas, and oranges

Vitamin E-nuts and seeds

Resist Drinking Alcohol and Smoking Cigarettes: There's a famous Greek saying: "all in good measure." When it comes to smooth skin, moderating your alcohol and cigarette consumption is more important than ever.

If you've ever awoken with the hallmark headache of a hangover, you've experienced the dehydrating effects of alcohol. This dehydration affects the skin as well, contributing to wrinkles. Alcohol also causes capillaries to leak. While you're passed out, sleeping it off, water is collecting in your soft tissue, making your face puffy and paving the way for wrinkles to form.

Smoking is another cause of wrinkling. Cigarettes deplete arteries of the nitric oxide that helps make skin flexible. Repetitive muscle movements over a long period of time also cause wrinkling. Also laugh and smile lines may be unavoidable, deeply pruned lips from years of sucking on cigarettes are not the answer to youthful looking skin.

Eat More Fish and Soy: Salmon, tuna, mackerel and other cold-water fish are excellent sources of omega-3 fatty acids, which nourish skin and help keep it smooth, glowing and youthful. Other foods rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, which also help protect against heart disease and stroke, include walnuts, flaxseed oil and canola oil. Another age-defying food is soy.

Sleep on your back: Ironically, beauty sleep can actually increase wrinkles. Over the years, habitually snoozing on your side or belly, with your face mashed into the pillow, gradually etches "sleep lines" that eventually become permanent. According to a study, side sleeping contributes to more wrinkling of the cheeks and chin, while slumbering facedown furrows the brow. Sleeping on your back prevents sleep  lines or may even reverse the problem. Getting Z's spurs release of a "youth hormone" called humna growth hormone, leading to thicker, healthier skin and fewer lines.

Wear Sunscreen-even when driving: Ever wonder why age spots are most likely to sprout on the left side of the face? Many people don't realize that UVA rays, the culprits is most wrinkling, easily penetrate car windows, even on cloudy days, accelerating such signs of aging as brown spots and creasing of the left side of the driver's face. The best defense is using broad-spectrum SPF30 sunscreen every day, even in the winter, since the sun's damaging rays are the number one cause of wrinkles. If you drive frequently, you may also want to invest in tinted car windows, which help block UVA.

Article written by: Yahoo Health

What is red carpet-ready skin? Red carpet events often start in the daylight and outdoors and continue indoors, well into the night. So the skin must be well-prepared to continue looking radiant. This is best achieved by starting three months before your event, or taking care of your skin on an ongoing basis. Healthy, well hydrated, blemish-free skin will look great with mineral makeup, and that is always our goal. Makeup should be used to enhance features and beautify the skin, not to cover up imperfections.

Tip #1: Replenish lost volume in the midface to look well rested. Botox &/or Fillers can fill and soften the appearance of deep lines and wrinkles.

Tip #2: Well-hydrated skin will look radiant and will hold makeup best. A light chemical peel one month before your event helps remove the outermost dead layers of skin. Two weeks before an event, and then again one day before the event, an oxygenating or collagen treatment helps hydrate the skin. It is recommended to do a series of treatments that start at least six weeks before an event.

Tip #3: Eyelashes have become the new sign of youth and beauty. With products such as Latisse, rejuvenating the eyes is easier than ever. Latisse takes 4 to 8 weeks to see the results.

Tip #4: If you breakout before an event, a facials, microdermabrsions or chemical peels help clear up redness, brown spots and acne inflammation.

Tip #5: Too much makeup is an attempt to cover up imperfections makes a person look older. Foundation should look moist, not mat or cakey. The older the person, the less color should be worn on the skin.

Follow these 5 simple tips in order to have red-carpet-ready skin.

Article written by: Dr. Gene Rubinstein, celebrity dermatologist

It's that time of year; parties, company dinners, family get-togethers and you want your skin to look great through the whole season. Here are some helpful tips to keep your skin looking great for the holidays:

1.) Pucker-up under the mistletoe: Chapped lips are always a problem in the winter as your lips do not have hair follicles or oil glands to protect them like the rest of your skin. Try making moisturizing your lips a part of your regular skin care routine, carry a lip balm or use a lipstick (especially one with SPF protection and added moisturizers). Remember, licking your lips only makes it worse!

2.) Resist popping the pimple: We've all done it, popped the pimple then regretted it when we saw the red blotchy mark it left. Popping your pimples can make things worse, irritating it further, spreading the bacteria and even leaving a permanent scar. It's better to treat the whole area to prevent new spots.

3.) Don't forget to exercise: At this time of year with busy schedules, exercise is sometimes put on the back burner, assuming it was there at all! Exercise helps relieve stress ( a big factor in aging your skin) and increases the oxygen flow to your skin, promoting younger looking skin.

4.) Remember to keep smiling: As a child, did your mother tell you to stop making that silly face or it will freeze that way? Wile it may not "freeze that way", your face will conform to your most common expression. Want a permanent frown? Keep frowning. What a younger happy looking face? Keep that smile on your face.

5.) Don't sweat it: Did you know that you can loose up to 2 liters of sweat in an hour! There is also a difference between man and women; men actually sweat more than women and their sweat has lower pH level. That's why there are different antiperspirants for men and women.

6.) Don't get sick - Wash you hands: Washing your hands often and correctly is an important tool to keep yourself and you family well over the season. Remember it's the rubbing action that gets the germs off your hands. So rub for 10-15 seconds using soap and warm water.

7.) Throw out your old cosmetics: Take this time of year to review your cosmetics and gauge which ones really need to get tossed. Bacteria can grow on cosmetics, a danger especially with the products you use around your eyes. A generic guide to longevity of cosmetic is:

• Mascara: Maximum of 3 to 4 months.
• One year for foundation, oil-based ones can last a few months longer. Remember to review your foundation with what's happening with your skin.
• 2 years for lip sticks and liners is a general rule of thumb.
• Have you cleaned your make-up brushes and applicators? Clean them quarterly or give then the toss.

8.) Tweak your tweezing: The best time to tweeze is right after you shower when your pores are open and your hairs are softened. Alternatively, try a warm compress over your brows prior to tweezing.

9.) Quit smoking before January 1st: What are you waiting for? Smoking ages your skin by encouraging more lines and yellowing of your skin. Smoking decreases the oxygen that goes to your skin, giving it a dull look. Quit today and start seeing the positive changes to your skin (and your health).

10.) Get some Rest: It's important to make sure that you are getting enough sleep during this busy time of year. Sleep is when your body repairs itself. Your skin, hair and nails all show the signs of not enough sleep by becoming dull and dry, and your nails can become brittle.

Your skin is the largest organ in your body, so you should be taking care of it year round!

Article written by: SkinCareGuide.ca

Lasers are an important component of a cosmetic medical practice. They treat many skin conditions, such as hyperpigmentation, acne, telangiectasias, aging skin and many other conditions that are not easily treated by typical facial treatments. Patient education on pre and post-laser care will optimize results and increase retail sales. These tips are designed to assist the esthetician in properly caring for patients' skin.

Pigmentation Disorders

Patients with pigmentation disorders, such as solar keratosis, photo damage, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma can achieve significantly better results if they take care of their skin at home. Most pigment disorders can be treated easily with visible light laser or intense pulsed light (IPL), except in the case of melasma. There has been success treating melasma with fractionated erbium laser treatments and other modalities, although several treatments are typically needed.

When treating patients with pigment disorders, home care is critical. Topical agents containing pigment-lighteners should be used at home for four to six weeks before treatment with continues use until the desired outcome is reached. Some popular pigment-lightening ingredients include hydroquinone, which many professionals consider to be the most effective pigment-lightener on the market; however, sensitivities may occur when using it. If a patient develops sensitivity or is looking for alternative treatments, the ingredients kojic acid, licorice root and arbutin, as well as many others, can be used with good results. These ingredients work by suppressing the activity of the melanocyte, which are the cells in the skin that produce pigmentation to protect it from irritation, inflammation, acne hormonal conditions and photo damage. Those with darker skin have active melanocytes;therefore it is an absolute necessity to pretreat Fitzpatrick Skin Types IV-VI so the risk of complications is decreased. Along with pigment-lighteners, sunscreen is an absolute must. If the proper sunscreen is not used before and after treatments, patients increase their chances of undoing the results they have obtained or increasing their existing pigmentation.

Rosacea or Vascular Issues

For patients with rosacea or vascular issues, IPL or visible light lasers are the most effective treatments. Light therapies are attracted to color and cannot differentiate between tanned skin and target colors: therefore, patients must use a topical broad-spectrum sunscreen before and after treatments. Zinc oxide is often preferred because it is a physical sunscreen with anti-inflammatory properties. Topical vitamin C and vitamin K could be used to achieve favorable results. Vitamin K decreases the pooling of blood under the skin commonly associated with telangiectasias, and vitamin C has been shown to strengthen capillary walls, therefore decreasing the chances of further damage. Care for these patients is simple compared to other skin conditions that are treated with lasers. Always remember, less is more with these skin types. It is imperative to educate the patient about the importance of wearing sunscreen on a daily basis and about ways to avoid further damage. The patient should also be aware of triggers that will cause breakouts.

Mature Skin

Mature skin that is characterized by fine lines, wrinkles or increased laxity benefit most from ablative laser treatments. One of the most popular and effective treatments available today is the fractionated carbon dioxide (CO2) laser. Care for the patient’s skin after treatment with the CO2 laser is critical, because it can affect the healing process and the results. Patients should be prepped with pigment-lighteners before and after these treatments in order to prevent the possibility of adverse reactions, such as hypopigmentation and hyperpigmentation. The patient must also be taught the importance of keeping the skin occluded with an ointment recommended by the treating physician. Along with a gentle cleanser, this ointment is the only product that should be used for the first four to five days following a deep ablative laser treatment.

The main purpose of these treatments is to create a wound response in the skin so more collagen will be produced. If the skin doesn’t have a healthy environment to generate this collagen, patients may not achieve optimal results and it can increase the likelihood of complications. The skin heals best in a moist environment; therefore, after the initial healing period, hydrating agents including hyaluronic acid and emollient moisturizers should be used. Peptide-rich products may also be applied to aid in the rebuilding process.

Fractional nonablative lasers are considered to be a more progressive treatment, meaning they will need multiple treatments to attain results similar to the CO2 laser. They are ideal for those who desire a shorter and less extreme healing period than that associated with CO2 lasers. The esthetician’s role in this treatment is similar to ablative laser treatments, although the care is much less intense. The patient will generally use an occlusive agent for one to two days, as opposed to the four to five days that are recommended with CO2 laser.

Acne

Lasers may also be used in the treatment of acne, which occurs because oil glands are stimulated to produce more sebum. In addition to this overproduction of sebum, dead skin cells accumulate in the excess oil. This excess buildup of skin cells and oil acts as a breeding ground for Propionibacterium acnes, which is the bacterium that causes acne. Laser light in the red to blue spectrum may be effective at killing this bacteria and decreasing the inflammation associated with it.¹ The laser works not by heat, but by activating a protein to destroy P. acnes and the surrounding inflamed acne lesions. Lasers alone or photodynamic therapy, a process where lasers are used in conjunction with a topically applied solution, have proven highly successful. Photodynamic therapy utilizes a topical drug called aminolevulinic acid to photosensitize the P. acnes, making them more susceptible to laser light. Proper product use during this treatment is essential. Gentle cleansers, sunscreens containing zinc oxide and hydrating agents, such as hyaluronic acid and vitamin B-5, should be used.

Erbium laser treatments are also successful for patients experiencing acne grades I and II, consisting of only blackheads and whiteheads with no inflammation. The erbium laser is used to remove superficial dead skin cells and un-roof, or open, lesions. A series of these treatments at a low setting is recommended for quick results with little downtime. In addition, a salicylic acid-based lotion will boost these results; it causes the outer layer of the skin to slough off extra dead skin cells. Recommending proper products for home care can make a significant difference in a patient’s outcome.

A vital role

The skin care specialist plays a vital role when working with a physician during these services. It is important to not only have the patient’s skin prepped properly, but also to care for the skin after these treatments. Along with any medical treatment, using the wrong products will not only hinder the results, but can also cause serious complications. Education is the key to achieve the best outcome, and the ultimate gratification comes when satisfied patients obtain their desired results.

REFERENCE

1. E Shnitkind, E Yaping, S Geen, AR Shalita and WL Lee, Anti-inflammatory properties of narrow-band blue light, J Drugs Dermatol 5 605–610 (2006)

The party has started! Are you ready for the champagne toasts, the cheesy dips, the decadent candies, and a few dances to "celebration" by Kool and The Gang? While we're all for celebrating the holidays, we're all really just looking out for two things: Our waistline and my skin. As we navigate our way through the parties, the goodies and the late nights, here's your survival guide to emerge in the New Year with skin that's radiant and healthy (and without a single extra pound to work off).

1. ADD HYDRATION: Saying "cheers" with a couple flutes of champagne this season? Alcohol can rob skin of moisture, so make sure you re-hydrate. All it takes is ten minutes of a supercharged mask to rapidly remedy dehydration. Try applying it before you get into the shower-by the time you're ready to get out, ten minutes have passed and you can rinse it right off.
2. KEEP THE CHAP IN-CHECK: Promise me you won't ring in the New Year with a midnight kiss that's chapped and peeling. Keep your lips smooth and soft with a lip exfoliant. In fact, why not just keep a tube with you all day, too? Then follow up with a swipe of emollient lip balm and your lip stick will go on much smoother.
3. PURGE!: After weeks of excess-abandoning your regular diet, staying up late, and falling asleep a few times without washing your face-you're going to need this. Our intensive treatment plan that "purges" skin of it's impurities, sweeping away dulling cells, and uncovering fresh, revitalized skin.
4. HIT REFRESH: No time to head home, wash your face and reapply your makeup before you're off to your holiday event? Boost moisture and revitalize your complexion to awaken your entire face. Unlike a heavy concealer, it's a lightweight tinted treatment that glides over skin to neutralize dark circles and blur fine lines.
5. PROCEED WITH CAUTION: If you're wearing a bit more makeup than usual as you celebrate, try a creme-based makeup remover that's not too harsh on skin.

**Oh, and for that waistline, here's one great hint: Don't eat anything that is a holiday treat. Stick to  veggies and actually lose weight this season!

Article Written by: Barbara Salamone

This list is not meant to be all-inclusive, but hopefully it will inspire thinking about what is real and how you know it is real and also inspire you to question those making a variety of claims about products, ingredients and the science behind them.

1. Facial exercises tone facial muscles and make a person appear younger:

The face is the only part of the body where muscles are attached directly to the skin; there are no facial ligaments and tissue. Constant facial exercise and tugging contribute to additional lines. Actually, wrinkles often form along expression lines caused by facial movements.

2. Vitamin E minimizes scarring:

Vitamin E is an antioxidant and helps build skin, but there is no evidence that it does anything to help with scarring. There is even some research that suggests it may have a negative effective on scarring.

3. Cucumbers help reduce puffiness around the eyes:

The principal ingredient in cucumbers in 90% water with the balance being inert fiber. They can be soothing and, with moisture, hydrate skin temporarily. The same results can be a negative effect on scarring.

4. Skin pores open and close:

Pore are openings in the skin that allow oils (sebum) to reach the surface. If pores are larger, this can be due to dead cells, genetics or scarring from squeezing blemishes.

5. The higher the skin protection factor (SPF) rating, the better:

SPF ratings, soon to be revised by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), only refer to protection from UVB rays. A person needs sun protection that has chemical and physical blockers, plus, an SPF also gives a false sense of security and introduces more potentially harmful chemicals to the body. Plus, an SPF of 50 is only marginally more protective than an SPF of 15; an SPF 15 of 30 has only 2% more protection than an SPF of 15, and a 40 has only 1% more than a 30. Sunscreens to be reapplied every 90-120 minutes.

6. Mineral oil is bad for your skin:

Mineral oil is a far cry from the industrial type that was previously used on skin. It is a very effective  ingredient in helping remove excess oil from the skin. Oil attracts oil, and the modern mineral oil formulated for use in skincare has a different molecular weight and will not harm skin or clog pores. Mixed the Kaolin-fine clay-it makes a potent cocktail to assist in controlling oil production in problematic skin. Vitamin A is the best ingredient to normalize skin.

7. Chocolate and greasy foods cause acne:

Eating chocolate does not cause acne. Hormonal factors, bacteria and skin cells are at the root of problematic skin, and stress can exacerbate flareups. Some individuals may have allergic reactions to food that can cause inflammation, as well.

8. Using larger quantities of a product will yield better results:

Less is more. Normally, a pea-sized amount of facial product will do the trick. Excessive amounts can cause skin problems and waste money.

9. Drying problematic or oily skin clears up acne:

The opposite is true. When skin becomes overly dry, an environment is created in which the skin is signaled that is too dry and produces more oil. Using dry products sparingly, and look to lightly moisture oily skin. The goal is to keep skin balanced.

10. Sun exposure will improve acne:

Yes, sun exposure can hide the appearance of acne for a while, but will lead to skin damage, pigmentation and drying that signals the skin to produce more oil.

11. Antioxidants reverse wrinkles:

Antioxidants are essential in fighting free radicals formation and are important in helping prevent skin damage, but they cannot make wrinkles go away.

Article Written By: Carol and Rob Trow, SkinInc. Magazine

Winter Weather can stir up all kinds of trouble for the skin, often bringing with it a slew of seasonal villains that can leave the skin feeling beat up.

There is Jack Frost, a cold character who often leaves skin feeling dull and dry, and his evil sidekick, Doctor Wind, who often joins Frost, whipping up icy blasts that cause skin to become brittle and crack. And do not forget Stress Man, a spirit with the unique ability to stir up hectic holiday situations that range from difficult family members to frantic fights for the seasons must-have toy.

Luckily, an elite force of specially trained experts exists to save the day. Known as The Esthetic Professionals, they fight to end their clients' winter woes with the super arsenal of tools they have at their disposal. An esthetic professional's utility belt comes equipped with a variety of skin-rejuvenating treatments suited for any skin situation. Dry skin, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and acne breakouts do not stand a chance.

Carrots

During the winter, people bundle up to protect themselves from the harsh elements. However, the most sensitive area of skin is often left exposed: the face. This delicate area is the perfect target for cold winds, dry indoor air and icy temperatures that draw moisture from the skin. As a result, skin is often left dry and dehydrated.

Super Peels

Chemical peels are topically applied acids that cause a controlled shedding of skin layers, and aid in the restoration and rejuvenation of the skin's surface. Depending on the level of rejuvenation desired, there are several types of peels that may be used to reach varying depths of the epidermis. This allows for the exposure of new layers and the creation of a fresh appearance.

Skin care

Skin care treatments are great for the skin this time of year. Organic facials, chemical peels, microdermabrasions and microdermabrasions and ultrasounds. A daily skin care regimen is also beneficial for your skin and aiding in bacteria and overall health of your skin.

Article written by: Louis Silberman, SkinInc. Magazine

Between November and March, one of the most common questions faced by skin care professionals relates to the treatment of dry winter skin. After all, it’s a condition to which few who live in Northern climates are immune. In fact, according to a report from the National Health Interview Survey (NHIS), a whopping 81 million Americans claim to experience dry, itchy or scaly skin during the winter months.

Given the prevalence of the condition, also known as “winter itch,” it is imperative that skin care professionals are prepared to combat the problem. Of course, providing clients with tips to improve the symptoms of dry winter skin is vital, but to ensure the recommendations you provide are those that will make a discernible improvement in a client’s skin, it’s necessary to have a sound understanding of the cause of the condition. What’s more, by presenting your clients with the reasons why they are enduring the discomfort of winter itch, they will be more likely to diligently implement your recommendations for how to remedy it.

Physiology of the stratum corneum

To understand skin hydration, it’s necessary to look at key components of the stratum corneum—the outermost layer of the epidermis that makes skin impermeable, and protects deeper skin tissue and the body at large from bacterial invasion and other environmental aggressors.

The stratum corneum is comprised of corneocytes, which are flattened, dead skin cells; desmosomes, the proteins that hold the corneocytes together; and intercellular lipids. Under a microscope, these components appear to be arranged in a brick-and-mortar manner, with corneocytes serving as the bricks, connected by desmosomes, and lipids playing the role of mortar that surrounds and protects the corneocytes. Collectively, these components create a physical wall intended to prevent moisture loss. However, the individual roles of corneocytes and lipids are equally important.

Corneocytes are mainly composed of keratin, which holds water and gives skin its strength, along with various other compounds called natural moisturizing factors (NMFs). As humectants, NMFs not only hold water, but also attract it; thus, they are essential to the skin’s flexibility and water-holding capabilities. However, they’re water-soluble, which is why skin dries out upon extended water contact from showering, bathing, swimming and hand-washing.

Intercellular lipids are comprised of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. In the stratum corneum, their role is to prevent the loss of NMFs from within the corneocytes. On the topmost layer of skin, they combine with sweat to form the thin acid mantle—the chemical barrier that kills bacteria and regulates moisture loss. What’s more, lipids lubricate the skin and, as such, are a major factor in ensuring smooth texture.

Environmental impact on the stratum corneum

For the stratum corneum to properly protect the body, it must be elastic and flexible, which is only possible when the skin is properly hydrated. Normal, healthy skin is 20–35% water. Each day, it loses approximately a pint of water through transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the continuous process by which water leaves the body and enters the atmosphere via evaporation and diffusion. However, when humidity drops, as it does in cold-weather months, there’s a dramatic increase in TEWL as the dry air pulls moisture from the skin. When the skin’s water content drops below 10%, it begins drying and brings discomfort characterized by redness, itchiness and flakiness. With less water in the skin, the production of NMFs becomes impaired and lipid levels fall, setting in motion a vicious cycle that is hard to remedy.

Add to the mix ongoing or prolonged exposure to irritants, such as soap and even water, and you have a far worse situation. This exposure causes the skin’s acid mantle to disintegrate, which further increases the rate of TEWL and decreases lipid levels. The result is even drier skin that may crack and even become infected.

With less water and fewer lipids to lubricate and protect it, skin no longer exfoliates properly. This is what results in the excessive buildup of dead cells on the skin’s surface, giving it an ashy appearance. It also results in an overall degradation of skin health; skin can no longer properly heal itself. In order to address the discomfort caused by these conditions, following are a variety of solutions that can be recommended by skin care professionals in order to help remedy winter itch.

Moisturizers

Of course, the primary objective in treating dry skin is to first minimize discomfort. Lotions and moisturizers can bring temporary relief; however, contrary to popular belief, these products do not add moisture to the skin. Rather, they help to restore the barrier function of the stratum corneum and cover fissures in the skin. Moisturizers typically utilize the following categorical ingredients.

Occlusives. These preserve moisture levels in the skin by slowing the rate of TEWL. Ingredients in this category include petrolatum, oils and silicones.

Humectants. These work just like the skin’s NMFs; that is, they attract water from the dermis and hold it in the stratum corneum. Ingredients in this category include glycerin, urea, propylene glycol and sorbitol.

Emollients. These act as lubricants and increase the skin’s flexibility and smoothness. They also help to give moisturizers and other skin care products their silky texture. Ingredients in this category include lanolin, isopropyl palmitate and jojoba oil.

Beyond these basic components of moisturizers, research has shown that formulations which incorporate ceramides and aloe vera are highly beneficial to dry skin.

Ceramides. For most individuals, ceramides are one of the most prevalent lipids found in the stratum corneum. In the skin of those who suffer from eczema, however, lowered levels of this key lipid are found. This research has demonstrated the key role ceramides play in preventing skin dryness.

Aloe vera. This is one of the few natural substances scientifically proven to benefit the body. Recent research has helped support the idea that it is beneficial in improving skin hydration due to its humectant properties.

Dry winter skin is best treated with a moisturizer that is rich in humectants. Formulations of this type tend to be heavier and are often marketed as night moisturizers. Regardless of the label, dry skin will benefit from their use throughout the day. Remind clients that it’s essential for them to reapply moisturizer every few hours when fighting dry skin. An alternative option is to supplement their morning and evening skin care routine with repeated use of a spray toner rich in humectants throughout the day.

Exfoliation

Although exfoliation is a necessary skin care step year-round, and is one that may be implemented daily with use of a chemical exfoliant safe for at-home use, it’s especially vital for those with dry skin. Remember that the diminished water content and reduced lipid levels associated with dry skin interrupt the normal desquamation process. Daily use of an effective chemical exfoliant will encourage the proper shedding of dead skin cells. Not only will this result in skin that looks better, but it will also improve the skin’s overall health.

Traditional recommendations

A number of age-old recommendations still hold a good deal of value and should continue to be provided to clients. These include the following.

• Take fewer and/or shorter showers and baths, and reduce water temperatures. This is an essential step for those with dry skin, but should be followed by those with healthy skin, as well. As mentioned previously, water leaches NMFs from the skin and affects its lipid content.
• Avoid the use of harsh soaps and detergents, as well as the frequent use of hand sanitizers. These ingredients remove the skin’s acid mantle, thus increasing the rate of TEWL. Instead, alcohol-free hand sanitizer and glycerin soap are recommended.
• Use a cool-mist humidifier in the home and office to maintain proper humidity levels. This will help skin maintain hydration by slowing the rate of TEWL.

The best course of treatment

Although most skin care professionals have a standard list of effective recommendations in the fight against dry winter skin and dry skin at large, it’s beneficial to stay abreast of the latest research relative to skin hydration and the ingredients that support it. After all, the scientific gains being made in the field of skin care are many and are leading to the constant development of increasingly effective formulations. By staying aware of research into the condition and the science behind it, you’re best prepared to give your clientele the very best course of treatment. And that, no doubt, will lead to a strong and long-lasting professional relationship.

Article written by: Ahmed Abdullah, MD - SkinInc. Magazine

Dermaplaning is a highly effective procedure for removing the outermost layer of dead skin cells. The dermaplane will also remove the layer of vellous hair that often covers the face, commonly known as "peach fuzz"-which traps dirt and oil. The treatment gives the skin a smoother appearance. The removal of the outer layer of dead cells also allows for better penetration and absorption of both pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products. These skin cells are no longer a protectant, but are a barrier for other procedures and/or products.

A highly specialized instrument (one time use) is used to "refinish" the skin's top layers through a method of controlled scraping. This procedure is safely performed using a sterile blade and handles made exclusively for dermaplaning. This treatment is extremely safe when used by a professionally trained skin care specialist. There is no more risk than a man shaving his face with a straight edge. It is non-invasive, quick and easy!

How is this treatment performed?

This treatment is safely performed by using a surgical blade. The blade is held against the skin at a 45 degree angle and stroked along the skin, just like shaving. However, the practitioner is doing the stroking while holding the area of skin taut.

Is this treatment safe?

This treatment, when professionally trained, is extremely safe. There is no risk involved.

Will the hair on the face grow back thicker?

No. It is physiologically impossible for your vellous hairs to grow back thicker. True, once the hair is cut, it has a blunt edge. But this blunt edge does not mean that the hair structure itself has been physiologically altered. Vellous hair will always grow back the way it was before it was dermaplaned.

Check out the labels on your favorite skin-care products and potions and you'll probably see that many of the beautifiers contain ingredients you'll find in your fridge. Why not gte more of the good-for-you stuff to enhance your complexion form the indise out?

The Problem: Acne

Sadly, embarrassing breakouts don’t always disappear after high school, but getting plenty of these three nutrients can help you banish blemishes whatever your age.

Vitamin A

“This antioxidant thins the epidermis, or outer layer of skin, which produces dead cells that can clog pores,” explains Jody Levine, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. It also dries up sebum, the gross, oily, waxy stuff your skin glands produce that mixes with dead skin cells to create clogs and transport you to Zitville. The daily value (DV) of A is 5,000 international units (IUs), so get at least that much, and pair it with healthy fats such as olive oil or avocado: A is a fat-soluble vitamin, so your body will absorb it better.

Good Sources: Sweet potatoes (28,000 IUs each); leafy greens such as spinach (23,000 IUs per chopped, cooked cup), kale (19,000 IUs per cooked cup) and broccoli (2,400 IUs per cooked cup); bright red, yellow and orange produce such as carrots (27,000 IUs per cooked cup), cantaloupe (5,400 IUs per cup), red bell peppers (4,700 IUs per cup) and red chile peppers (428 IUs each); asparagus (600 IUs per four spears)

Zinc

The mineral helps tame skin’s oil production; less oil (if you have an excess of the stuff) means less sebum—and fewer pimples, according to Dr. Levine. The RDA for zinc is 8 milligrams.

Good Sources: Raw oysters (76 mg per six oysters), fortified breakfast cereals such as Total (15 mg per ¾ cup), canned blue crab (5 mg per cup), turkey (4 mg per cup), beef sirloin (4 mg per 3 ounces), pork loin (4 mg per 3 oz), part-skim ricotta (3 mg per cup)

Omega-3 Fatty Acids

They help maintain the body’s essential oils, the healthy, non-pore-clogging kind that keep skin cells from drying out, flaking and congesting pores, Dr. Levine says. They also have anti-inflammatory properties that aid with healing. “Acne is a teeny little wound on your face,” says Kristin Kirkpatrick, R.D., nutrition advisor to YouBeauty.com. There’s no RDA for omega-3s; Kirkpatrick suggests aiming for 600 mg daily.

Good Sources: Flaxseed (1,600 mg per 1 tablespoon), canola oil (1,300 mg per 1 tbsp), soybean oil (900 mg per 1 tbsp)

Article By: Lucy Danziger and the staff at SELF

The Problem: Dry, Dull Skin

You already know that drinking plenty of liquids helps rejuvenate flaky, flat-looking skin, so keep the water flowing—then add these vital nutrients to your freshen-up arsenal.

Omega-3 Fatty Acids

“As we get older, our oil glands produce less oil, so you see more flaking and scaling,” says dermatologist Valori Treloar, M.D., coauthor of The Clear Skin Diet. Omega-3s may help lubricate skin to keep it looking dewy. Try to consume 600 mg a day.

Good Sources: Flaxseed (1,600 mg per 1 tbsp), canola oil (1,300 mg per 1 tbsp), soybean oil (900 mg per 1 tbsp)

Niacin

“When skin cells dry out, their barrier to the environment breaks down,” Dr. Levine says. “Bacteria and other things from the outside can then penetrate more easily and cause an inflammatory reaction.” And that means you can add redness and irritation to your list of complaints. Niacin, a B vitamin, appears to help strengthen the skin’s barrier, by both hydrating cells and acting as an anti-inflammatory, Dr. Levine says. The RDA for niacin is 14 mg.

Good Sources: Chicken (12 mg per ½ breast), canned light tuna (11 mg per 3 oz), wheat flour (9 mg per cup), pork chops (7 mg per 3 oz), beef sirloin (6 mg per 3 oz), cornmeal (4 mg per cup)

Biotin

This is another B vitamin, and although its mechanisms aren’t yet well understood, biotin has been shown to help hair and nails grow, and it may also aid skin-cell turnover, which keeps your complexion looking fresh. There’s no RDA, but doctors consider 30 micrograms adequate.

Good Sources: Eggs (up to 25 mcg each), avocado (up to 6 mcg each), salmon (up to 5 mcg per 3 oz)

The Problem: Signs of Aging

Getting older is fine (wisdom, respect, all that good stuff). Looking older, not so much. Thankfully, we can help stall the process by eating strawberries, pineapple and other delish foods.

Vitamin A

Of skin’s several layers, the dermis—which lies right below the surface layer of skin (or epidermis)—contains all the collagen, a protein that gives skin plumpness and elasticity. “Vitamin A helps increase collagen production and thickens the dermis,” Dr. Levine explains. The result: Skin looks fuller and bounces back more readily. And because it’s an antioxidant, A also helps repair the free radical damage to skin cells that leads to wrinkling and sagging. The DV is 5,000 IUs.

Good Sources: Sweet potatoes (28,000 IUs each); leafy greens such as spinach (23,000 IUs per chopped, cooked cup), kale (19,000 per cooked cup) and broccoli (2,400 IUs per cooked cup); bright red, yellow and orange produce such as carrots (27,000 IUs per cooked cup ), cantaloupe (5,400 IUs per cup), sweet red bell peppers (4,700 IUs per cup) and red chile peppers (428 IUs each); asparagus (600 IUs per four spears)

Vitamin C

Also an antioxidant, “vitamin C basically helps mop up free radicals before they do any damage,” Dr. Levine says. You’ll hit your mark at 75 mg.

Good Sources: Red bell peppers (152 mg each), broccoli (101 mg per cooked cup), strawberries (98 mg per cup), papaya (87 mg per cup), pineapple (74 mg per cup), kiwifruit (70 mg each), cantaloupe (59 mg per cup), cauliflower (46 mg per cup)

Plant Polyphenols

These organic plant chemicals seem to do double dermis duty. For starters, polyphenols in green tea significantly increased circulation to skin in a recent study at the University of Witten-Herdeck in Germany. “We don’t know the mechanism, but if you’re getting more blood flow to the skin, the cells are getting increased nutrients, which can help support their health,” says study author Carolyn Moore, Ph.D. Participants drank the equivalent of 8 cups of decaffeinated green tea a day; Dr. Moore can’t speculate on the effect of drinking less, but it couldn’t hurt to start with 1 or 2 cups a day. People who drank water mixed with cocoa powder high in flavonols, another type of polyphenol, experienced a similar increase in hydration and blood flow to their skin, as well as less roughness and scaling, a study in The Journal of Nutrition shows. What’s more, cocoa’s flavonols seem to offer some UV ray protection: The skin of cocoa sippers showed less redness after sun exposure.

Good Sources: Green tea, chocolate (a few ounces a day should do the trick)

Carlson Laser Aesthetics invites you to join us at

our Fall Open House!

Enjoy an evening of beverages and hors d’oeuvres in an informant

atmosphere while learning more about the latest in cutting edge laser

aesthetic treatments, products and more!

Thursday, November 3, 2011